Tuesday, January 27, 2015

The good, the bad, and the ugly of a 1950's bathroom | #PBJreno

Remember that renovation we're doing.  Yah.  We're still working on that.  

I've mentioned before that our main bathroom which we once thought was in okay condition actually turned out to be a disaster and needing to be replaced/updated in order to be a functional bathroom for the four of us.

A quick reminder what was before:

I also shared how we'll be updating all the trim/window/door casings in our home and the how-to for that.

In the before picture you can see the state that the floor was in.  It was a tiled floor that had black grout.... false. It has a light grey grout (maybe even white?) that turned black..everywhere. I tried my hardest to clean that but after spending two hours and tackling a space that was two feet by one I gave up. 

Then one sunny afternoon I was wandering around Home Depot and I stumbled upon what looked like a possible unexpected solution to our bathroom floor problem.  It was laminate tile that looked like marble that was just a peel & stick application. I asked the nearby sales person if this would work for our bathroom condition, and unfortunately he said no. BUT, he did have another suggestion if I was open to ideas.  So we wandered to the next aisle over and he showed me vinyl wood planks that he said could be used in bathrooms.  I was instantly very weary... you see in our last home we had laminate wood floors in the whole main level which included a half bath.  Well after a few months of living there the flooring around the toilet started to bubble up.  It turns out the seal of the toilet was leaking under the floors and causing bad water damage.  Water + wood laminate floors = no go sir. 
He, however, said these were different and the difference of vinyl and laminate was the key difference.  These were a peel and stick application similar to the other style I was looking at but they were a floating floor and stuck to one another rather then the floor underneath. This created a super tight and waterproof bond beyond just the tongue & groove closure of typical laminate floors. He said they were great for bathrooms because not only did the adhesion between planks create a waterproof closure, but if you seal the perimeter of the floors against the walls with a waterproof silicon sealant than the whole floor became waterproof.  *BOOM*

[Product: TrafficMaster Allure Ultra - Vinyl Plank Flooring]

I did a quick math calculation in my head of the size of the bathroom and placed a special order for the flooring. 

Installation was SUPER easy.  You can cut the pieces to size with an X-acto knife and a simple score line and snap, piece is measured exactly how you need. 

I started with the side that had the most cuts which was the wall with the door, and the tub surround.  Measure. Score with X-acto. Snap. Place. Repeat as necessary. 

The whole process took MAYBE a couple hours.  Super easy. And yes.  This is my ghetto rehab version of a bathroom. As you can see from all the tape on the left... that's where tiles fell off the wall from removing the door trim.  The large square with no tiles... well that's where the tiles broke and ripped off removing the original vanity.  And just the giant hole in the wall with the plumbing? Well... that's where our pet gremlins go in and out of the walls. 

Before installing the quarter round I applied a lot... a LOT... of waterproof clear sealant that sealed the edge of the flooring to the wall.  So any water that spilled from kids playing in the sinks, toilets overflowing from leggo's being flushed, to the bathtub splashes of two kids wrestling in a bubble bath... the floor is protected. 

Some other fun adventures that came our way in this bathroom reno was removing the window and door trim. It's always a new adventure seeing what I'm left with and have to figure out how to repair to put on the new Craftsman trim.

At least it went from that to:

One last fun adventure in this ugliness of a 50's bathroom was wanting to replace the ceiling fan... as I removed it I was greeted with pine needles, dead bugs, and lots of other unexplainable items that fell down. TIP of the DAY people: If you take down something from your ceiling, and you find pine needles, double check how it's being properly (or IMPROPERLY) vented out of your home... because you should not be getting pine needles in your bathroom.

Next up, I'll be sharing more about this bathroom and the fun things we added to it such as the toilet and sink fixtures. Who ever thought there was so much to learn when picking out a toilet!?


Tuesday, January 6, 2015

Design Board for Foyer Space | Inspiration

We have this awkward space in our house that's sort of like a foyer but it's not next to the entrance.... could be utilized as an office but I have a toddler that'd get into computer wires & papers...
so instead it's going to be a pretty place.  A place to just enjoy.

Once we start phase 4 of our renovation (well it's phase 4 at this point, things may change) the wall space in this area will decrease because we'll be expanding the entrance to one of the adjoining rooms.  But for now I'm feeling the inspiration below as how I'd like to design the space.

Typically we choose a lot of neutrals and greiges in our decor, especially paint.  But I was feeling bold in this area since it's right off our renovated kitchen and wanted more contrast.

I shared a few days ago on Instagram that we painted the walls this dark navy color, Naval by Sherwin Williams. It. is. BEAUTIFUL. So drastic, so gorgeous. 
What do you think?


Monday, December 15, 2014

Updating old trim and casings to Craftsman Style | PBJreno

Where have I been? Hiding in this monstrous excuse of a DIY project - that's where.  I know I've gone radio silent on the blog the past month but between power housing projects at night and then dealing with the winter flu... I haven't had time to document all our joys!

So kitchen aside - another little project we took on was our main bathroom, and by main I mean our ONLY bathroom.  I gave a little breakdown of the original state of this bathroom here.... and slowly I've been budgeting a makeover in it.  Already tackled is the floor, toilet, vanity, fixtures, paint, and trim.  So I wanted to share a little how I tackled the trim because it's the same process I'm using in the remainder of the house, including the room I already did, Baby Girl's room. 

I decided on Craftsman style trim and casings in our home because I liked the idea of doing large baseboards and the clean lines of butt joints (hehe I said butt).

My true inspiration started when I was pinning ideas for our "New Home Dream" and I saw this picture:


Yup. I'll take it.

I already did this in Baby Girl's room and now that I was redoing our bathroom I had to redo the window and the door frame. I wasn't doing the 6" baseboards in the bathroom as I just did a quarter round from the vinyl floor we put down.

I'm pretty sure all the windows in the home are the original ones from the 50's and they look like they've lived a hard life... so as I'm updating the trim around it I also have to sand down the current paint job, and do a lot of scraping of old paint off the windows. Unfortunately when they painted the outside of the house they did NOT tape off the windows so even though I'm cleaning up what the windows look like from the inside - I'm still left with a ton of brown paint on the windows on the outside. sigh...someday we'll get to fixing the outside of the house too.

First I remove the original trim and sanded the window casing (the wood part of the window that see above -- not sure EXACTLY what that's technically called).  I sanded enough to get as smooth as possible and remove any chipped paint.

For the interior casing of the window I used just what's called a "stop" from the lumber department.  I install both horizontal pieces on the window (top and bottom), then the vertical ones (left and right).  For the whole installation of trim I use a Ryobi 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike 18GA Brad Nailer.  This thing is my life saver during projects like this!!! It's soooo nice not having to deal with the plastic hose connected to the air compressor like with traditional pneumatic tools.   

This is the bottom part of the window - the "sill" and typically you'd want one solid piece that is flush to the window casing.  However, as with all our DIY projects in this house I'm dealing with very wonky "environments".  I used a stop on the bottom and then a separate piece of mdf wood trim to create the full sill because of different heights of the original window frame and how the prior trim was installed.    If this doesn't make sense hopefully it will in the "after" picture later.

Here's a before shot of what they had for casing with the right trim piece removed.  The original sill was almost similar to what I wanted to replace with it, however I was going to add the apron piece below the sill.
I removed the original sill and then assembled my sill/apron piece together before installing it on the window.

For all trim and casing I've made it as easy as possible for me - I'm using pre-primed mdf boards from Menards.  Using MDF instead of pine 1x4's is great because it has a slightly rounded edge which I prefer especially on baseboards.  The sharp 90 degree angle that pine 1x4's (and all sizes) would show dents and dings on them easier than a rounded edge does (maybe not though... maybe I'm just weird and totally made that up in my head).

So for the sill/apron I used 2 1x4 mdf cut to length.  I first dry fitted the sill piece on the window and then placed the apron piece up and marked where I need to attach it.  Then I just use a quick line of wood glue to the boards and use the same nail gun to attach the two boards together.

Next up is I create the header piece - this is the same for both window and door casings.  I use a 1x4, and then a 1x2 for the top and bottom piece.  Technically the top 1x2 is called a casing cap, and the bottom 1x2 is called a filet.  I assemble this whole part together instead of installing it one by one on the casing just for total convenience and ease!  Then my casings for doors are just a plinth block (I'll explain that later), a 1x4 for the sides, and then this full header piece and it's super quick and easy to install. 

Then you just fill in all the nail holes with splackling and use window/door caulk to fill in all the seams.
The process I'm doing in each room for painting trim depends on the stage of progress in that room.  Ideally it's so much easier to paint trim after you've installed it and need to paint the walls too because then you don't have to do any taping.  So the order I'd ideally paint a room is:
ceiling, trim (baseboards & door/window casings), walls.  

I'm using the same color & paint for all the trim/casing in our house and it's Sherwin Williams ProClassic Interior Acrylic Latex in Greek Villa.

This paint has been awesome for the trim so far!  It goes smooth and has a very durable finish so will be great on our baseboards + two kids + toys!


And because who doesn't love a good before and after:

Big shout out thanks to Sherwin Williams for providing me with the paint for all our trim.  I'm on a first name basis at my local Sherwin Williams, well to be honest they call me "PB&Jstories" but... close enough.  They're great and have helped me in so many ways with tips and advice on different paints I highly recommend them and their paints!   
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