Thursday, October 2, 2014

What happens when you have project ADD | #PBJreno

When we were touring the house I remember having a moment of relief when I saw the upstairs bathroom, which we'd ALL be sharing.  From first glance it wasn't bad.  Fairly neutral colors, okay size, nothing that SCREAMED fix me now.  I was wrong. Oh so very wrong.

As this started becoming a place we cleaned our paint brushes and acted as a construction site port-a-potty I realized quickly this room was a DISASTER.  The shower was disgusting, they "caulked" the tub/tile seam with that inexpensive vinyl lining which really doesn't block any water or mold build up.  A closer look and all the tiles along the tub line are starting to bulge out -- which means there's water/mold behind them. YAY. 

The vanity sink was an under-mount that had separated from the vanity so any time water ran it seeped through that gap ... down to the ...

under cabinet area.  Where water just built up over time and had water damage all over.

Oh but hey there was a cute sign at least.

Again, do you see the poor caulk lines of the tile/wall, plus the tile/vanity top?  It was all begging for filth and mold to just build up in those gaps. 

So.  While we don't have a big budget, wait... we don't have a budget at all for a bathroom due to our kitchen renovation I had to get clever how we can "renovate" this space with practically zero money.

First plans:
Build a vanity from Ana White plans -- decide to maximize storage or maximize vanity top space.
Find an inexpensive vanity top for custom cabinet build
Clean the floor tile
DIY or Hire to reseal bathroom tub
Paint walls above tile
Redo window and door casing
Paint ceiling
Replace light fixtures
Replace fan

I quickly realized while building a custom vanity would be the most cost effective for that part, to find a vanity top that was 60" and a right-side placed sink would be VERY expensive.  So I decided to buy two vanity bases from Ikea, and then the MOST cost-effective vanity top I could find was to use butcher block.

Oh hey, do you see that gaping hole in the wall there?  Yah APPARENTLY the previous owner's thought removing their old medicine cabinet and vanity lights would be fixed by just leaving them... and covering it with a mirror.  
Actually, to be honest that's what we may do too SSSHHH.  But in the LONG run, down the road we'll be gutting this whole thing anyways so do we really want to fix a shabby plaster wall with big ol' holes in it? Eh. Mirror will cover it :)

So next I bought a butcher block top from Ikea which was about $120.  It was cut for kitchen cabinets so had a 25" depth instead of bathroom vanity cabinets of about 18".  We had to cut it down in length, and width but was easy to do, and big bonus is both those sides will be hidden against the wall so we can still use the finished exposed sides. 

Once it was cut to size to fit on top of the vanity drawers, we had to mark with our bathroom sink template where we needed to cut for the drop in.  Again, another easy route was to choose a drop-in sink rather than an under-mount for our purpose.  1 reason - easiest to install.  2 reason - it used up less space underneath within the cabinet which we want to use to maximize storage. 

Once it was all measured out, we used painter's tape to tape out the cut lines (helps reduce splintering of exposed wood) and used our jigsaw to cut out our sink hole.  It was easiest to start our cut lines by drilling a half inch hole at each corner.  This gave us a starting point for our jigsaw to drop in, rather than trying to cut into the big block at an angle.

VOILA.... a nice dry fit to make sure all is good.   Both our sink and faucet are from National Builder's Supply if you like what you see!

Once the cuts were completed it was time to stain -- yup! I wanted to stain our butcher block dark to give it a more custom look.  My hubs and I prefer dark wood and we have had to accept that our hardwood floors are the light honey color in our home so I thought this was the perfect chance to bring in the dark wood color for us.  
Ikea pre-seals their butcher blocks so I had to use an orbit sander with 120 grit and give it an all over to remove the layer of sealer for even staining. 

I tested out two different stains - my usual Minwax Provincial and tried out Varathane's Dark Walnut.  Typically I would ALWAYS choose Minwax Provincial, but typically I'm using it on reclaimed wood and the stain comes out a totally different color than this original wood.  It really accented all the different grains and variants in the wood and just didn't have the final look I was going for.  Varathane's stain to me has always applied more like a muddy paint, and then upon the wiping process acts more as a stain.  I really loved the rich look it gave the butcher block and it actually hid a lot of the wood variants which I wanted for this space. 

Oh yeah, apparently I put the wrong top back on it. Moving on...

Don't you LOVEEEEEEE the final color?! Oh my goodness.  I do. It looks so high-end! Once this dried I gave it a finish seal with Polycrylic Protective Finish which is a waster-based polyurethane.  It will keep the vanity top water and stain proof. 

Final updates of the bathroom to come.... as you can guess we aren't anywhere close to finishing anything in that house yet.

If you're interested check out other #pbjreno updates here!


1 comment :

  1. The stain looks great. I think you just gave me an idea for our bathroom.


Love hearing back from my readers, you make my day! Thanks, Pamela of PBJstories

Pin It button on image hover