Monday, December 15, 2014

Updating old trim and casings to Craftsman Style | PBJreno

Where have I been? Hiding in this monstrous excuse of a DIY project - that's where.  I know I've gone radio silent on the blog the past month but between power housing projects at night and then dealing with the winter flu... I haven't had time to document all our joys!

So kitchen aside - another little project we took on was our main bathroom, and by main I mean our ONLY bathroom.  I gave a little breakdown of the original state of this bathroom here.... and slowly I've been budgeting a makeover in it.  Already tackled is the floor, toilet, vanity, fixtures, paint, and trim.  So I wanted to share a little how I tackled the trim because it's the same process I'm using in the remainder of the house, including the room I already did, Baby Girl's room. 

I decided on Craftsman style trim and casings in our home because I liked the idea of doing large baseboards and the clean lines of butt joints (hehe I said butt).

My true inspiration started when I was pinning ideas for our "New Home Dream" and I saw this picture:


Yup. I'll take it.

I already did this in Baby Girl's room and now that I was redoing our bathroom I had to redo the window and the door frame. I wasn't doing the 6" baseboards in the bathroom as I just did a quarter round from the vinyl floor we put down.

I'm pretty sure all the windows in the home are the original ones from the 50's and they look like they've lived a hard life... so as I'm updating the trim around it I also have to sand down the current paint job, and do a lot of scraping of old paint off the windows. Unfortunately when they painted the outside of the house they did NOT tape off the windows so even though I'm cleaning up what the windows look like from the inside - I'm still left with a ton of brown paint on the windows on the outside. sigh...someday we'll get to fixing the outside of the house too.

First I remove the original trim and sanded the window casing (the wood part of the window that see above -- not sure EXACTLY what that's technically called).  I sanded enough to get as smooth as possible and remove any chipped paint.

For the interior casing of the window I used just what's called a "stop" from the lumber department.  I install both horizontal pieces on the window (top and bottom), then the vertical ones (left and right).  For the whole installation of trim I use a Ryobi 18-Volt ONE+ AirStrike 18GA Brad Nailer.  This thing is my life saver during projects like this!!! It's soooo nice not having to deal with the plastic hose connected to the air compressor like with traditional pneumatic tools.   

This is the bottom part of the window - the "sill" and typically you'd want one solid piece that is flush to the window casing.  However, as with all our DIY projects in this house I'm dealing with very wonky "environments".  I used a stop on the bottom and then a separate piece of mdf wood trim to create the full sill because of different heights of the original window frame and how the prior trim was installed.    If this doesn't make sense hopefully it will in the "after" picture later.

Here's a before shot of what they had for casing with the right trim piece removed.  The original sill was almost similar to what I wanted to replace with it, however I was going to add the apron piece below the sill.
I removed the original sill and then assembled my sill/apron piece together before installing it on the window.

For all trim and casing I've made it as easy as possible for me - I'm using pre-primed mdf boards from Menards.  Using MDF instead of pine 1x4's is great because it has a slightly rounded edge which I prefer especially on baseboards.  The sharp 90 degree angle that pine 1x4's (and all sizes) would show dents and dings on them easier than a rounded edge does (maybe not though... maybe I'm just weird and totally made that up in my head).

So for the sill/apron I used 2 1x4 mdf cut to length.  I first dry fitted the sill piece on the window and then placed the apron piece up and marked where I need to attach it.  Then I just use a quick line of wood glue to the boards and use the same nail gun to attach the two boards together.

Next up is I create the header piece - this is the same for both window and door casings.  I use a 1x4, and then a 1x2 for the top and bottom piece.  Technically the top 1x2 is called a casing cap, and the bottom 1x2 is called a filet.  I assemble this whole part together instead of installing it one by one on the casing just for total convenience and ease!  Then my casings for doors are just a plinth block (I'll explain that later), a 1x4 for the sides, and then this full header piece and it's super quick and easy to install. 

Then you just fill in all the nail holes with splackling and use window/door caulk to fill in all the seams.
The process I'm doing in each room for painting trim depends on the stage of progress in that room.  Ideally it's so much easier to paint trim after you've installed it and need to paint the walls too because then you don't have to do any taping.  So the order I'd ideally paint a room is:
ceiling, trim (baseboards & door/window casings), walls.  

I'm using the same color & paint for all the trim/casing in our house and it's Sherwin Williams ProClassic Interior Acrylic Latex in Greek Villa.

This paint has been awesome for the trim so far!  It goes smooth and has a very durable finish so will be great on our baseboards + two kids + toys!


And because who doesn't love a good before and after:

Big shout out thanks to Sherwin Williams for providing me with the paint for all our trim.  I'm on a first name basis at my local Sherwin Williams, well to be honest they call me "PB&Jstories" but... close enough.  They're great and have helped me in so many ways with tips and advice on different paints I highly recommend them and their paints!   
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